The New York Times discovers New Haven

Let us now see a list of some of the most exotic, beautiful and stimulating places in the world, the sites for our dream vacation!

The New York Times on Jan. 15 put out in its Sunday edition a special section entitled “52 Places to Go.” In the introduction to this gala 72-page spread, lavishly illustrated with colorful photos (and a little bit of text), the editors wrote that they have “a drive to explore the world.”

“What do we seek? Food, culture, adventure, natural beauty? This list has all those elements and more.”

I’m sure you’re wondering: well, who made this exclusive list? The favored sites included Martinique, Madrid, Istanbul, Taipei, and —

New Haven.

Imagine my surprise when I, a long-time resident of that chronically-maligned city, came upon this selection. I was pleased, gratified and a tad puzzled.

Quickly I turned to pages 68-69, featuring a large photo of floating cushion-like objects at NXTHVN, accurately described as “a cutting-edge community-focused arts center…that has become the heart of a vibrant African American artists’ community.”

The three long paragraphs describing New Haven noted it is a “mostly walkable and bikeable seaside town with distinctive neighborhoods, an encyclopedic collection of great American architecture, a thriving cultural life and one of the best food scenes in the country for a city of its size (134,000).”

All of this is true. But which of our many restaurants did this writer, Alexander Lobrano, choose to highlight? Not Pepe’s or Sally’s, the internationally-acclaimed pizzerias; I guess Lobrano thought that was too obvious. Instead he cited Villa Lulu.

I had never heard of it. Never been there. But Lobrano said it only recently opened and I’m not a “foodie” who frequents expensive downtown restaurants. I checked out its website: “a spirited contemporary Italian restaurant wrapped in stylish decor…featuring regional Italian comfort food, a curated Italian wine list and a modern cocktail culture.” Lobrano raved about its “crispy artichokes with Parmesan aioli and pork belly with Tuscan cabbage and apple mostarda.” I guess that’s what floats the boats of la-dee-da New York Times readers.

Lobrano also noted New Haven, founded in 1638, is a place “where people have always tinkered with, mused about and challenged the status quo.” Lobrano focused on the new Hotel Marcel, named for its architect Marcel Breuer. This distinctive brutalist structure alongside I-95, formerly the headquarters of the Armstrong Rubber Co., has been transformed into a luxury lodging, the first completely solar-powered, energy-neutral hotel in the U.S. I did stay there for one night, just to check it out. Yes, it’s impressive, a good restoration.

I could look out my hotel window onto the interstate and New Haven Harbor and remember the trips my family took in the 1950s and ‘60s; whenever we passed through New Haven my mother would call out: “Roll up your windows! We’re coming into New Haven!” It’s true the harbor did put out a mighty stink in those days. I could not have imagined that I would one day live there and learn to love the place.

Anyway — aren’t these lists arbitrary and hard to figure out in terms of why certain places rate highly and others get the “roll up your windows” treatment? Two months ago U.S. News and World Report put out a list of “The Best Places to Live in America.” Topping the list was Huntsville, Ala., which I bet you wouldn’t have guessed. As I studied the rankings, I became more and more irate; Hartford came in at number 47. Worcester, Mass. was 60th. And finally, at number 114, was poor old New Haven. The article stated: “Galleries, concert venues and coffee shops help make New Haven the cultural capital of Connecticut.” Right! The Yale Art Gallery, the Yale Center for British Art! Toad’s Place! Willoughby’s Coffee! And so how come Hartford (where I lived for a year before happily returning to New Haven) ranks so far above my Elm City? I love the Mark Twain House, but come on.

Here’s another bewildering ranking: the lifestyle website Thrillist last year rated Connecticut as the 37th most beautiful state in the country. The website editors called it “the runt” of New England. (If you’re wondering, Kansas came in dead last, just behind Indiana and Illinois.)

Do these self-appointed experts even come to check out what they’re writing about? Did they see Long Island Sound towns such as Branford, Guilford, Madison and Old Lyme? Did they walk through East Rock Park in New Haven?

I doubt it.

(A note to my readers: I’m going to be taking some weeks off — catching my breath, contemplating, reflecting, etc. See you down the road…)